Bravissimo to all as well. Such a fabulous trip, and so much of that comes down to the maturity and good nature of the young men and women who accompanied us. Thanks to Brett ( Papa Benne) for being an awesome travel companion and blogger.
Arrivederci
Professor Kiemski
Wednesday, 24 April 2013
Monday, 22 April 2013
Day 10 Amalfi Coast and Paestum...arrivederci Italia
Our last full day and it rained (heavy) for about twenty minutes and so we stepped across Italian puddles for the first time...briefly only as the sun re-emerged not long after. We have been so blessed to have had such gorgeous weather during our stay.
The road along the Amalfi coast is spectacular, both in terms of scenery (amazingly beautiful), and road use. Some of the overtaking witnessed is extraordinary, a unique blend of audacity and undying faith in St Christopher. At other times our bus has to negotiate an oncoming truck or fellow bus with barely a cigarette paper width to spare, yet momentum seems to flow through some kind of strange and confusing (to the non-Italian) blend of horns and graciousness. The views are (again) unbelievably scenic and the bus happily stops along the way (irrespective of the chaos behind) for us to alight and soak in the beauty.
The village of Amalfi itself is a delight and is home to the magnificent Cathedral of Amalfi dating back to the 12th century but spectacularly remodelled and redecorated through the ages up to the 18th century. The crypt, containing the remains of St Andrew, includes a visually arresting (though slightly gaudy) frescoed ceiling, a reminder of the decorative opulence of the Baroque period. The whole Amalfi coastline is famed for its nativity scenes and they appear regularly as we travel.
The Greek and Roman ruins at Paestum are a revelation. Confronting these colossal Greek temples up close (three are still standing) is an awe-inspiring experience. The fact that they have stood untouched by restorative hands for over 2500 years only serves to heighten their majesty. These are truly epic ruins. Surrounding and interwoven with the temples is the equally compelling remains of the Roman city that followed the Greek occupation (thankfully the Romans equally respected the sacred temples and they were not substantially altered in antiquity). The Roman remains are perhaps what Pompeii may have looked like today were it not miraculously and tragically encased in volcanic material. Here at Paestum the remnant walls are low enough to step over, though the layout of the city is easily discernible and it a rare pleasure to step freely among the ruins and attempt to decipher the archaeology.
Tomorrow we say arrivederci Italia (with some more shopping in Sorrento first). It has been a truly wondrous experience. I say thank you to our wonderful tour guide Simona, who has been right there for us every step of the way. To Estelle Lazer for being so generous in her knowledge and so humble and giving in her time to the students. To Barb K especially for without her enthusiasm, effort and organisational nous this fantastic excursion would never have happened...thanks BK you're the best! To our amazing hosts in Italy, so gracious and accommodating. And finally, to our wonderful wonderful students who have learned and experienced so much in such a short time, whose abundant joy and cameraderie has been so sweet, who have represented their school(s) impeccably and, above all, have just been a fabulous group of young adults. It has been a pleasure to travel in your company.
That's it for the blog, hope you have enjoyed (sorry, I know I've gone on a bit at times) and have been able to share a little in our wonderful experience.
Ciao
BB
The road along the Amalfi coast is spectacular, both in terms of scenery (amazingly beautiful), and road use. Some of the overtaking witnessed is extraordinary, a unique blend of audacity and undying faith in St Christopher. At other times our bus has to negotiate an oncoming truck or fellow bus with barely a cigarette paper width to spare, yet momentum seems to flow through some kind of strange and confusing (to the non-Italian) blend of horns and graciousness. The views are (again) unbelievably scenic and the bus happily stops along the way (irrespective of the chaos behind) for us to alight and soak in the beauty.
The village of Amalfi itself is a delight and is home to the magnificent Cathedral of Amalfi dating back to the 12th century but spectacularly remodelled and redecorated through the ages up to the 18th century. The crypt, containing the remains of St Andrew, includes a visually arresting (though slightly gaudy) frescoed ceiling, a reminder of the decorative opulence of the Baroque period. The whole Amalfi coastline is famed for its nativity scenes and they appear regularly as we travel.
The Greek and Roman ruins at Paestum are a revelation. Confronting these colossal Greek temples up close (three are still standing) is an awe-inspiring experience. The fact that they have stood untouched by restorative hands for over 2500 years only serves to heighten their majesty. These are truly epic ruins. Surrounding and interwoven with the temples is the equally compelling remains of the Roman city that followed the Greek occupation (thankfully the Romans equally respected the sacred temples and they were not substantially altered in antiquity). The Roman remains are perhaps what Pompeii may have looked like today were it not miraculously and tragically encased in volcanic material. Here at Paestum the remnant walls are low enough to step over, though the layout of the city is easily discernible and it a rare pleasure to step freely among the ruins and attempt to decipher the archaeology.
Tomorrow we say arrivederci Italia (with some more shopping in Sorrento first). It has been a truly wondrous experience. I say thank you to our wonderful tour guide Simona, who has been right there for us every step of the way. To Estelle Lazer for being so generous in her knowledge and so humble and giving in her time to the students. To Barb K especially for without her enthusiasm, effort and organisational nous this fantastic excursion would never have happened...thanks BK you're the best! To our amazing hosts in Italy, so gracious and accommodating. And finally, to our wonderful wonderful students who have learned and experienced so much in such a short time, whose abundant joy and cameraderie has been so sweet, who have represented their school(s) impeccably and, above all, have just been a fabulous group of young adults. It has been a pleasure to travel in your company.
That's it for the blog, hope you have enjoyed (sorry, I know I've gone on a bit at times) and have been able to share a little in our wonderful experience.
Ciao
BB
Sunday, 21 April 2013
Day 9 Capri
I think there is universal consensus within the group that Capri is the most beautiful location in the world. Today was probably less about a history lesson as such and more about the simple enjoyment of some of the most scenic picturesque vistas imaginable. The cable car slowly pulls its way up from the Marina Grande to Piazza Umberto and we disembark to be confronted by a stunning view back down and across to the Bay of Naples. Brightly whitewashed villas cling to the side of the mountain jutting out in all directions, their gardens brimming with citrus impossibly terraced into the slope. It is a cliche, but it really is like a postcard of Mediterranean paradise. Then, arriving at the Garden of Augustus, the view (astonishingly) improves, with sheer cliffs dropping away to crystalline blue water and forming a spectacularly panoramic backdrop for the beautiful buildings sprouting from the hillside. It is little wonder this island is a playground for the rich and famous today (surely only they could afford to shop in some the luxury boutiques), as it has been throughout history, including for the Roman Emperor, Tiberius.
A small but keen team of seven (with requisite/foolhardy stamina) decide to accept the challenge and embark on the long trek up up up to the ancient ruins of the Villa of Tiberius. The walk itself is breathtaking, offering views back over the island from a range of vantage points, all the while winding along narrow paths strung with gates to villas large and small, some displaying beautiful little religious altars, About half way into our climb we are informed by a local official that the Villa is closed. Disappointed, we decide to carry on anyway and upon reaching the top a man appears at the locked gate and in true Italian fashion declares, "Is closed...but is open" and after paying the entry fee (and wondering where it will end up), the gate is unlocked and we are ushered inside the grounds. After being spoiled by the immaculately preserved ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, the villa could seem a disappointment. However, the decayed state of the villa does not in any way diminish its (readily apparent) scale and majesty. In fact, the ruins as they are, in some sense, become a more powerful embodiment of the extremes of decadence and the subsequent crumbling of empire.
A late burst of shopping in Sorrento before the train arrives and everyone is happy.
The photos...
A small but keen team of seven (with requisite/foolhardy stamina) decide to accept the challenge and embark on the long trek up up up to the ancient ruins of the Villa of Tiberius. The walk itself is breathtaking, offering views back over the island from a range of vantage points, all the while winding along narrow paths strung with gates to villas large and small, some displaying beautiful little religious altars, About half way into our climb we are informed by a local official that the Villa is closed. Disappointed, we decide to carry on anyway and upon reaching the top a man appears at the locked gate and in true Italian fashion declares, "Is closed...but is open" and after paying the entry fee (and wondering where it will end up), the gate is unlocked and we are ushered inside the grounds. After being spoiled by the immaculately preserved ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum, the villa could seem a disappointment. However, the decayed state of the villa does not in any way diminish its (readily apparent) scale and majesty. In fact, the ruins as they are, in some sense, become a more powerful embodiment of the extremes of decadence and the subsequent crumbling of empire.
A late burst of shopping in Sorrento before the train arrives and everyone is happy.
The photos...
Saturday, 20 April 2013
Day 8 Museum of Naples
The National Archaeological Museum is housed in a sixteenth century building monumental in scale, a former royal stables and university it is now home to a staggering collection of archaeological relics from Pompeii and Herculaneum. Virtually every object that is too valuable or delicate to remain in situ is held in collection here and the treasures are wide and varied. Our tour begins with the vast array of everyday objects; keys, cooking utensils, door handles, lamps, household religious idols, theatre tokens, surgical instruments etc etc. Many of these items are artistically shaped or decorated, providing an aesthetic as well as merely functional role. This was a highly decorative society (for the wealthy at least) where even a simple kitchen colander was an object of beauty.
The tragedy of the rampant looting of the sites by the agents of the 18th century European aristocracy (frescoes and mosaics garrulously hacked from walls and floors in the hunt for classical treasures to decorate the palaces of princes and kings), has at least resulted in the preservation of many magnificent examples of ancient Roman household art. Although no longer possessing their original lustre, the frescoes are surprisingly bright and luminescent and it possible to 'read' the (mainly mythological) tales that adorned the walls of wealthy homes. The mosaics are astonishingly beautiful; almost impossibly intricate up close, a myriad of tiny tiny pieces of coloured marble. Viewed from a distance their colours sparkle and their images (from the simple to the panoramic) resonate.
We are only able to scratch the surface of the vast collection in our time at the museum. Then we are driven around the streets of Naples (including a brief stop to watch the Americas Cup in action) and given a tour of the many spectacular historical buildings and structures (Ancient, Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque) that adorn the city. Then more shopping in the (very cheap) shops of Naples...airline load limits must be nearing capacity for some students!!
Tomorrow we journey to the island of Capri.
ps. It rained for about 3 minutes late this afternoon.
The tragedy of the rampant looting of the sites by the agents of the 18th century European aristocracy (frescoes and mosaics garrulously hacked from walls and floors in the hunt for classical treasures to decorate the palaces of princes and kings), has at least resulted in the preservation of many magnificent examples of ancient Roman household art. Although no longer possessing their original lustre, the frescoes are surprisingly bright and luminescent and it possible to 'read' the (mainly mythological) tales that adorned the walls of wealthy homes. The mosaics are astonishingly beautiful; almost impossibly intricate up close, a myriad of tiny tiny pieces of coloured marble. Viewed from a distance their colours sparkle and their images (from the simple to the panoramic) resonate.
We are only able to scratch the surface of the vast collection in our time at the museum. Then we are driven around the streets of Naples (including a brief stop to watch the Americas Cup in action) and given a tour of the many spectacular historical buildings and structures (Ancient, Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque) that adorn the city. Then more shopping in the (very cheap) shops of Naples...airline load limits must be nearing capacity for some students!!
Tomorrow we journey to the island of Capri.
ps. It rained for about 3 minutes late this afternoon.
Day 7 Pompeii
This is it, the iconic destination at the heart of any archaeological journey to Italy. The site itself is huge. Unlike Herculaneum (neatly contained within the walls of its excavation), there is no vantage point at which to observe the whole town and instead it unfolds before us as a sprawling ancient city. We enter through one of the ancient gates in the perimeter walls which defended the city in pre Roman times and walk along the beautiful little roads (paved in antiquity!). Pompeii's architectural relics reflect all the diversity of its society; magnificent temples, opulent villas, luxurious bath houses, ancient restaurants, bars and bakeries, laundries etc, etc. And everywhere is the ever present reminder of the great exploited slave workforce that powered daily life; a heavy grinding mill in a bakery or a giant washbasin for treading clothes in urine. There are beautiful frescoes, statues and mosaics (many are replicas - we will view the originals tomorrow in the Museum of Naples), yet it is the mundane imprints of everyday existence that really resonate; the ruts in the roads worn by countless years of chariot traffic, the marble worn by a thousand hands around the rim of a drinking fountain (which we still drink from today as we move around the site), this is the subtle evidence of the human occupation that really illuminates the experience.
Immersed in the wonder of the preservation it is often easy to lose sight of the human disaster. However, when faced up close with the casts of the victims, the shocking reality of their deaths reminds us all of the terrifying reality which must have unfolded here two thousand years ago. At the Garden of the Fugitives, one is captured in a kind of defiant half crawl, vainly struggling on in an ultimately fruitless search for refuge. Others cower together or lie face down in exhaustion, starved of oxygen. An adult bravely shields a small child. There is nothing peaceful about these passings and we are uncomfortable witnesses to their final breaths, captured eternally (like everything here) at a terrifying moment in time. The ethical debate that surrounds the display of these human remains plays out very strongly indeed at Pompeii.
All day we are privileged to be accompanied by Dr Estelle Lazer, the pre-eminent expert on the site, author of textbooks, and (most importantly), a wonderfully warm and engaging, down to earth person who takes the time to walk and talk with students, listen to their observations and comments, and answer their questions, all in such a humble and sincere manner. The students (and this teacher) are suitably starstruck! A magnificent day...and the weather was pretty good too (again!!).
Photos...
Immersed in the wonder of the preservation it is often easy to lose sight of the human disaster. However, when faced up close with the casts of the victims, the shocking reality of their deaths reminds us all of the terrifying reality which must have unfolded here two thousand years ago. At the Garden of the Fugitives, one is captured in a kind of defiant half crawl, vainly struggling on in an ultimately fruitless search for refuge. Others cower together or lie face down in exhaustion, starved of oxygen. An adult bravely shields a small child. There is nothing peaceful about these passings and we are uncomfortable witnesses to their final breaths, captured eternally (like everything here) at a terrifying moment in time. The ethical debate that surrounds the display of these human remains plays out very strongly indeed at Pompeii.
All day we are privileged to be accompanied by Dr Estelle Lazer, the pre-eminent expert on the site, author of textbooks, and (most importantly), a wonderfully warm and engaging, down to earth person who takes the time to walk and talk with students, listen to their observations and comments, and answer their questions, all in such a humble and sincere manner. The students (and this teacher) are suitably starstruck! A magnificent day...and the weather was pretty good too (again!!).
Photos...
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